Appliance wattage chart: running and starting watts
Typical running and starting watts for household, RV and outage appliances — the numbers you need to size a battery, an inverter or a generator. They are planning ranges from a generator maker’s chart and a university extension service. The label on your own appliance, or a plug-in meter, always wins.
How to read this chart
- Running watts are what the appliance draws while it works. They set your daily energy (with the hours it runs) and the continuous rating of an inverter or generator.
- Starting watts are a brief surge — a second or two — when a motor or compressor starts. Only motor loads have one; heaters, microwaves and electronics don’t. Starting watts decide the surge rating of an inverter and the starting rating of a generator.
- Ranges, not exact values. A small, new, efficient fridge sits at the bottom of the range; an old side-by-side at the top. When you size equipment from the chart, use the top of the range so you aren’t caught short.
Household appliances
| Appliance | Running watts | Starting watts |
|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator | 150–400 | 800–1,200 |
| Freezer | 100–500 | 500–1,000 |
| Window AC, 5,000 BTU | 450–600 | 900–1,200 |
| Window AC, 10,000 BTU | 900–1,200 | 1,800–2,400 |
| Central AC, 2 ton | 2,000–2,500 | 3,500–4,500 |
| Central AC, 3 ton | 3,000–3,500 | 5,000–6,000 |
| Central AC, 4 ton | 4,000–5,000 | 6,500–8,000 |
| Furnace fan, ½ hp | 300–800 | 800–1,600 |
| Sump pump, ⅓ hp | 500–800 | 1,000–1,600 |
| Sump pump, ½ hp | 800–1,050 | 1,300–2,150 |
| Well pump, ½ hp | 750–1,000 | 1,500–2,000 |
| Well pump, 1 hp | 1,000–2,000 | 2,000–4,000 |
| Washing machine | 500–1,000 | 1,000–2,300 |
| Electric water heater | 3,000–4,500 | no extra |
| Electric dryer | 4,000–6,000 | no extra |
| Dishwasher | 1,200–2,400 | no extra |
| Microwave | 600–1,200 | no extra |
| Electric range, one burner | 1,200–2,400 | no extra |
| Space heater | 750–1,500 | no extra |
| TV, 32 in (ENERGY STAR certified) | 27–36 | no extra |
| TV, 55 in (ENERGY STAR certified) | 64–114 | no extra |
| TV, 65 in (ENERGY STAR certified) | 85–135 | no extra |
| LED bulb | 8–15 | no extra |
| Ceiling fan | 15–75 | no extra |
| Window fan | 50–200 | no extra |
| CPAP, no heat | 30–60 | no extra |
| CPAP, heated humidifier | 60–120 | no extra |
| Phone or laptop charger | 20–100 | no extra |
| Internet router or modem | 10–20 | no extra |
A few of these get their own worked pages. The fridge — the load people most often want to keep running — is on how many watts a refrigerator uses per day, and sizing a generator for it on what size generator to run a refrigerator. The microwave’s inverter question is on what size inverter to run a microwave and the CPAP’s on what size inverter to run a CPAP; cooling a room on solar is on how many solar panels to run a mini split; and the well pump on what size generator to run a well pump.
RV and camping
| Appliance | Running watts | Starting watts |
|---|---|---|
| RV air conditioner, 13,500 BTU | 1,500–2,000 | 2,800–3,500 |
| RV air conditioner, 15,000 BTU | 2,000–2,500 | 3,500–4,500 |
| RV refrigerator | 150–600 | 400–1,000 |
| RV microwave | 600–1,200 | no extra |
| RV water heater (electric element) | 1,200–1,500 | no extra |
| Mini fridge or cooler | 50–100 | 400–600 |
| Box fan | 50–200 | no extra |
| Portable induction cooktop | 1,200–1,800 | no extra |
The RV air conditioner is the load that sets the generator size for most campers — what size generator for a 30 amp camper works it through. Starlink isn’t on Champion’s chart; Starlink’s own spec sheets list the Standard kit at 75–100 W average and the Mini at 25–40 W — see how much power Starlink uses per day.
Nameplate wattages from the extension service
Virginia Cooperative Extension’s energy fact sheet lists typical nameplate wattages — the most the appliance can draw, printed on its label. They run higher than everyday use for anything with a thermostat or several settings.
| Appliance | Nameplate watts |
|---|---|
| Coffee maker | 900–1,200 |
| Clothes washer | 350–500 |
| Clothes dryer | 1,800–5,000 |
| Dehumidifier | 785 |
| Electric blanket, single / double | 60 / 100 |
| Hair dryer | 1,200–1,875 |
| Portable heater | 750–1,500 |
| Clothes iron | 1,000–1,800 |
| Microwave oven | 750–1,100 |
| Laptop | 50 |
| Refrigerator, frost-free 16 cu ft | 725 |
| Toaster | 800–1,400 |
| Vacuum cleaner | 1,000–1,440 |
| Water heater, 40 gallon | 4,500–5,500 |
| Water pump, deep well | 250–1,100 |
Two of those have worked running-cost pages: the cost to run a dehumidifier at the 785 W nameplate figure, and the cost to run a ceiling fan. A 1,500 W heater on household power draws 12.5 amps at 120 volts.
Notice the refrigerator: 725 W on the nameplate versus 150–400 W running on Champion’s chart. The nameplate includes everything the fridge could draw at once; while the compressor runs, it uses far less. That is why the extension service suggests treating a fridge as running about a third of the time.
From watts to watt-hours a day
watt-hours per day = running watts × hours per day kWh per day = watt-hours ÷ 1,000
A 60 W laptop for 4 hours is 240 Wh. A 1,500 W heater for 8 hours is 12 kWh. A fridge at 200 W running a third of the day is about 1,600 Wh. Add your appliances in the solar load calculator to get one daily figure for sizing batteries and panels, or price a single appliance with the electricity cost calculator — for example the cost to run a space heater.
How to find your appliance’s real watts
- Read the label. Most appliances list watts on a label on the back, bottom or inside the door. Microwaves list both cooking power and input power — use the input figure.
- Only amps listed? Multiply by the voltage — 120 V for most US household appliances, 240 V for dryers, ranges and some pumps.
- Measure it. A plug-in usage monitor shows real watts and logs watt-hours over a day. It is the only good way to measure a fridge or freezer.
- Motor nameplates. Pumps and compressors list running amps and sometimes locked-rotor amps; the latter hints at the start surge.
Frequently asked questions
How many watts does a refrigerator use?
About 150–400 W while the compressor runs, with a start surge of 800–1,200 W (Champion). Because it cycles, a typical fridge uses roughly a third of its running watts averaged over the day.
How many watts does a microwave use?
Champion lists 600–1,200 running watts; the extension service lists 750–1,100 W on nameplates. Use the input watts from your microwave’s label — it is higher than the cooking power on the box.
How many watts does a TV use?
ENERGY STAR-certified TVs draw about 27–36 W at 32 in, 64–114 W at 55 in and 85–135 W at 65 in when on (certified-model data). Older and non-certified sets can draw more; the label or a plug-in monitor gives yours.
What appliances have starting watts?
Anything with a motor or compressor: fridges, freezers, air conditioners, pumps, furnace fans, washing machines and power tools. Resistive loads like heaters, toasters and kettles don’t.
Sources
- Champion Power Equipment — Generator Wattage Chart (opens in a new tab) — Typical running and starting watts for household, RV and job-site appliances (a manufacturer’s planning chart — your nameplate wins).
- Virginia Cooperative Extension, BSE-301: Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use (2020) (opens in a new tab) — Wattage × hours ÷ 1,000 = kWh per day; watts = amps × volts when only amps are listed; a refrigerator runs at full wattage about a third of the time; typical nameplate wattages.
- ENERGY STAR — Certified Televisions data set (on-mode power) (opens in a new tab) — Certified models, on-mode watts, retrieved October 2026: 32 in about 27–36 W; 43 in about 45–78 W; 50 in about 61–90 W; 55 in about 64–114 W; 65 in about 85–135 W; 75 in about 120–176 W.
- Starlink — Standard kit specification sheet (opens in a new tab) — Power consumption: average 75–100 W.
- Starlink — Mini specification sheet (opens in a new tab) — Power consumption: average 25–40 W; input rating 12–48 V, 60 W.